扬子晚报
白岩松
2026-02-09 22:01:05
Sichuan'sSoul:UnpackingtheNuanceof"Shaoru"
WhenonespeaksofSichuancuisine,theimmediateassociationisoftenwithfierychiliesandtheexhilaratingtingleofSichuanpeppercorns.Whiletheseelementsareundeniablycentraltoitsvibrantidentity,thetrueheartofSichuanesecookingliesinamoreprofoundconcept:"Shaoru"(少如).Thisisn'tmerelyadescriptorofspiciness;it'sanethosthatspeakstoadelicatebalance,amasteryofsubtlety,andadeeprespectfortheingredientsthatbloominthisfertilesouthwesternland."Shaoru"whispersofacuisinethatisfarmorecomplexthanitsreputationmightsuggest,hintingatlayersofflavorthatunfoldwitheachbite,revealingasymphonyoftastesthatarebothboldandnuanced.
Theveryname"Shaoru"canbeinterpretedas"lessismore"intermsofoverbearingflavors,orperhaps"fewarelikeit,"pointingtoitsuniquecharacter.Itencapsulatestheartofachievingprofoundtastethroughcarefulselectionandskillfulpreparation.Thinkofaperfectlybraiseddishwherethemeatissotenderitmeltsonthetongue,itsrichumamideepenedbyslowcookingandajudiciousblendofaromatics.Orconsiderthedelicatesweetnessofacloudearmushroomstir-friedwithjustawhisperofgingerandgarlic,allowingitsnaturaltextureandflavortoshine.Thisis"Shaoru"initspurestform–wherethequalityoftherawmaterialsisparamount,andthecookingprocessamplifiesratherthanmaskstheirintrinsicdeliciousness.
ThehistoryofSichuancuisineisasrichandvariedasitsflavorprofiles.Forcenturies,Sichuanhasbeenacrucialagriculturalhub,blessedwithfertileland,ahumidclimate,andabundantnaturalresources.Thisbountyhasprovidedchefswithanincrediblepaletteofingredientstoworkwith.Fromthefieryredchilies,whichwereintroducedtoChinarelativelylatebutfoundaperfecthomeintheSichuanbasin,tothearomaticSichuanpeppercornsthatprovidetheirsignaturenumbingsensation,theregion'sproducehasshapeditsculinarydestiny.Theintroductionofthechilipepperinparticular,aroundthe17thcentury,revolutionizedthelocaldiet,transformingitintothefierypowerhousewerecognizetoday.However,thegeniusofSichuanesechefswasnotsimplytoembracetheheat,buttointegrateitintoacomplextapestryofflavors.Theylearnedtoharnessthechili'swarmth,balancingitwithsweetness,sourness,saltiness,andtheever-presentumami,creatingdishesthatarenotjusthot,butprofoundlyflavorful.
Beyondthefamous"mala"(麻辣-numbingandspicy)profile,Sichuancuisineboastsanastonishingarrayoftastecombinations.Therearedishesthataresweetandsour(糖醋-tangcu),savoryandfragrant(酱香-jiangxiang),andeventhosethataredelicatelyaromaticandslightlysweet,highlightingthenaturalflavorsofvegetablesandtofu.Thisdiversityisatestamenttotheregion'sadaptabilityandtheculinarycreativityofitspeople.ConsidertheiconicMapoTofu,adishthatexemplifies"Shaoru"initsdynamicinterplayoftexturesandtastes.Thesilkentofu,thesavorymincedmeat,thefermentedbroadbeanpaste,thefierychilioil,andthetinglingSichuanpeppercornsallconvergetocreateaharmoniousexplosionofflavor.Yet,nosingleelementdominates.Eachcomponentplaysitspart,contributingtoacomplexandsatisfyingwhole.The"Shaoru"hereliesintheprecisionofthebalance,theartofmakingeachingredientsingwithoutoverpoweringtheothers.
ThegeographicalisolationoftheSichuanbasinalsoplayedasignificantroleinpreservinganddevelopingitsuniqueculinarytraditions.Formuchofitshistory,Sichuanwasarelativelyself-containedregion,fosteringadistinctcultureand,byextension,adistinctcuisine.Thisallowedfortherefinementoflocalingredientsandcookingtechniques,leadingtothedevelopmentofspecializeddishesandflavorcombinationsthataredistinctlySichuanese.Eventoday,whenonespeaksofSichuanfood,there'sanimmediaterecognitionofitsuniquecharacter,atestamenttotheenduringstrengthofthesetraditions.ThisintrospectionhasallowedSichuancuisinetoflourishinternally,developingadepthandrichnessthatcontinuestocaptivatepalatesworldwide.Theconceptof"Shaoru"is,therefore,intrinsicallylinkedtothishistoricalcontext–acelebrationoflocalproduce,time-honoredtechniques,andaculinaryphilosophythatvaluesdepthandbalanceovermereintensity.It'sareminderthattrueculinaryartistryoftenliesnotintheloudnessoftheflavors,butintheireloquentconversation.
TheArtof"Shaoru":FromHumbleIngredientstoCulinaryMasterpieces
Theessenceof"Shaoru"inSichuancuisineisnotjustaboutthefinaltaste,butaboutthejourneyfromhumbleingredientstoculinarymasterpieces.It’sinthemeticulousselectionofproduce,theprecisecontrolofheat,andthethoughtfulcombinationofspicesthatSichuanesechefsdemonstratetheirartistry.Thisphilosophyiswovenintothefabricofeverydaycooking,fromthesimplesthome-styledishestothemostelaboratebanquetpreparations.Thepursuitof"Shaoru"isacontinuousendeavor,anongoingdialoguebetweentraditionandinnovation,alwaysaimingforthatperfectharmonyofflavor,aroma,andtexture.
Attheheartof"Shaoru"liesadeepunderstandingofaromatics.Sichuanchefsaremastersatcoaxingoutthebestfromingredientslikeginger,garlic,scallions,staranise,andcassiabark.Thesefoundationalelementsarenotmerelyflavorenhancers;theyarethebuildingblocksuponwhichcomplextasteprofilesareconstructed.Considertheubiquitous"dry-fried"(干煸-ganbian)technique.InadishlikeDry-FriedGreenBeans,thevegetablesaresubjectedtohighheat,ofteninoil,untiltheirmoistureevaporatesandtheirskinswrinkleandblister.Thisprocessconcentratestheirflavorandimpartsadelightfulchewiness.Theadditionofmincedpork,preservedvegetables,andajudiciousamountofchiliandSichuanpeppercorntransformsthemfromasimplesidedishintoadeeplysatisfyingexperience.The"Shaoru"hereisevidentinhowthesimplegreenbean,throughskillfulpreparation,becomesavehicleforacomplexinterplayofsavory,spicy,andaromaticnotes,withoutlosingitsinherentcharacter.
Theimportanceofsaucesandseasoningsinachieving"Shaoru"cannotbeoverstated.Sichuanesecuisineutilizesaricharrayoffermentedproducts,suchasPixianbroadbeanpaste(郫县豆瓣酱-Pixiandoubanjiang),chilibeanpaste(辣椒酱-lajiaojiang),andfermentedblackbeans(豆豉-douchi).Thesearenotsimplythrownintoadish;theyareoftenstir-friedtoreleasetheirfullaromaandflavor,creatingadeep,savorybase.Thepreciseratioofthesepastes,combinedwithsoysauce,vinegar,sugar,andsometimesricewine,determinesthefinalcharacterofthedish.Awell-executedKungPaoChicken,forinstance,perfectlyembodies"Shaoru."Thesweetnessofthesugarbalancesthetangofthevinegar,whilethechiliandSichuanpeppercornprovideagentlewarmthandtingle.Thecrispypeanutsaddadelightfultexturalcontrasttothetenderchickenandthecrispvegetables.Eachelementisinperfectproportion,contributingtoadishthatisbothexcitingandcomforting.
The"Shaoru"conceptalsoextendstotheartofbalancingopposingflavors.Sweetandsour,spicyandcooling,savoryandpungent–theseseeminglycontradictoryelementsaremasterfullyinterwoven.TaketheclassicTwice-CookedPork(回锅肉-huiguorou).Theporkbellyisfirstboiled,thenslicedandstir-friedwithleeks,Pixianbroadbeanpaste,andsometimesatouchofsweetbeanpaste.Theresultisadishthatisrich,savory,slightlyspicy,andsubtlysweet,withtherenderedporkfatcoatingtheleeksandcreatingaluscioustexture.The"Shaoru"liesinthecontrolleduseoffatandspice,thewaythepungentleekscutthroughtherichnessofthepork,andthedeep,complexflavorthatemergesfromseeminglysimpleingredients.
Furthermore,"Shaoru"inSichuancuisineisaboutshowcasingtheuniquetexturesthatcanbeachievedthroughvariouscookingmethods.Fromthecrispyexteriorandtenderinteriorofadeep-frieddishtothesilkensmoothnessofsteamedtofuorthesatisfyingchewinessofhand-pullednoodles,textureisasimportantasflavor.DisheslikeBangBangChicken(棒棒鸡-bangbangji),wherethechickenispoundedandshredded,thencoatedinarichsesame-peanutsauce,offeradelightfulcombinationoftendermeatandcreamysauce.Thesauceitself,aperfectbalanceofsavory,sweet,andslightlyspicynotes,isaprimeexampleof"Shaoru"–eachcomponentmeticulouslybalancedtocreateaharmoniouswhole.
Inessence,"Shaoru"isthequietbrillianceofSichuancuisine.It'stheunderstandingthattrueflavorcomesfromdepth,balance,andaprofoundrespectfortheingredients.It'saboutcreatingdishesthatarenotjusttasted,butexperienced–asymphonyofsensationsthatlingeronthepalateandinthememory.Whetherit'sahumblehome-cookedmealorasophisticatedculinarycreation,thespiritof"Shaoru"guidesSichuanesechefstoachievealevelofcomplexityandsatisfactionthathasrightfullyearnedthiscuisineaplaceamongtheworld'smostbeloved.It'satestamenttothefactthatsometimes,themostprofoundflavorsarethosethatareartfully,subtly,andskillfullyrevealed.
